Asilomar Dunes, Pacific Grove, CA

Asilomar Dunes marks the western edge of Pacific Grove, where the street grid thins into sand, cypress and the long curve of Asilomar State Beach. Wind off the water shapes this place more than any plan did, and the sound of surf reaches most yards. Homes in Asilomar Dunes sit on sandy, wind-trimmed lots. Low coastal houses stand beside a few larger two-story ones that catch ocean views, and the landscaping leans on dune plants and Monterey cypress more than on lawn. Salt air is hard on paint and fences, so the sharpest-looking places tend to be the ones repainted often. The beach park is the main event. A mile of sand and rock is threaded by a boardwalk through restored dunes, and low tide opens up pools in the coves, so locals check the tide chart before heading out. The surf is rough enough that most people come to walk, watch and take pictures. The Asilomar Conference Grounds, the Arts and Crafts campus Julia Morgan began designing in 1913, borders the sand, and the municipal golf links begin a short way north. For a bite, Phoebe's Cafe inside the conference grounds at 800 Asilomar Avenue handles coffee, pastries and sandwiches. Fishwife, at 1996 1/2 Sunset Drive just past the boundary, is the sit-down seafood restaurant on this side of town. There is no grocery inside the neighborhood. The supermarkets on Forest Avenue, Safeway and Trader Joe's, are a drive across town, and Highway 68 starts close by for trips inland. Nearly every errand means getting in the car. Fog and wind come with the setting, and summer afternoons here are often gray and cool while inland towns bake. Early evening may be the best hour, when dog walkers, joggers and a few people with folding chairs all end up facing the same direction.