Montara, Montara, CA

Montara sits on the San Mateo County coast, about twenty miles south of San Francisco, on the stretch of Highway 1 between Pacifica and Half Moon Bay. It feels like a beach village with a mountain at its back. Fog comes in often, surf noise carries up the side streets, and the long ridge above town fills the eastern sky. Houses here run small and weathered. Postwar cottages and ranch-style homes make up most of the older blocks, usually with wood siding, deep gardens and salt-tolerant planting. Newer, larger houses have been filling in on the bluff and hillside streets, while the flat blocks near the highway stay modest. Many streets are narrow and quiet, and plenty of homes get a glimpse of ocean rather than a full panorama. The outdoors are the main draw. Montara State Beach lies below the highway and is known for surfing, windsurfing and fishing, reached by steep paths down from the road. Behind town, Rancho Corral de Tierra, part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, covers nearly four thousand acres of hills, and the Kanoff Street trailhead leads toward the mountain. There is no public parking lot at Rancho itself, so hikers leave cars at the state beach or on neighborhood streets. The old lighthouse on the bluffs also is a hostel. For coffee, Sage Bakehouse on Cabrillo Highway is the stop. It is an Australian-style cafe with savory pies, sausage rolls and pastries, plus a dog-friendly patio with ocean views. Gherkin's Sandwich Shop on 7th Street has been serving sandwiches since 2012, from turkey and pastrami to a breakfast sandwich built on pancakes. A sit-down dinner usually means driving down the coast to Half Moon Bay. Coastside Market in neighboring Moss Beach covers everyday groceries and stays open into the evening, and bigger shopping trips go to Half Moon Bay or Pacifica. Highway 1 is the one main road, and a SamTrans bus route links the area to those same two towns. Most days involve a car. That single highway is also the weak spot. A sunny weekend at the beaches or a problem up the road can slow every errand, and there is no second way out. Living in Montara comes down to how much you like weather as part of the day, because the fog and wind decide when the walk happens.